W TREK ITINERARY & unfiltered journal
five days unplugged in Patagonia
The most popular W Trek Itinerary consists of five days of hiking from the West side of the park to the East. This way, the most iconic viewpoint – Mirador Las Torres – is reached on the final morning of the trek.
This is the route I chose to take. I have outlined each day step by step and included my unfiltered journal entries from each day of the hike. This five-day solo journey is one of the most awe-inspiring and memorable experiences of my life. It is such a special experience for me, and I dream and hope that you will get to experience it one day, too. Some places just hold a little bit more magic.
I also put together a full in-depth guide with everything you need to know about trekking the W.
Day 1: Arrival & Hike to Grey Glacier
Take the 7 a.m. bus from Puerto Natales to the Torres del Paine National Park entrance and continue to Pudete. From there, you will need to get on a Catamaran across Pehoé Lake and arrive at Paine Grande. Please note that you will need to pay for the Catamaran ride on the spot in cash!
Upon arrival, you will begin the trek by hiking 11 kilometers to Grey Refugio where you will have sweeping views of Grey Glacier along the trail.
Day 1: March 27, 2022
So, my thoughts today have ranged from “This is the best decision I’ve ever made” to “What the f*** did I get myself into.”
First off, I forgot deodorant sorry for all the other hikers out here. The weather was all over the map…. One minute the sun would be coming out and the next I had arctic winds, rain pelting in my face, and my waterproof backpack cover flying away. The views are OUT OF THIS WORLD. I can’t even believe that I’m here.. I hope that it warms up a little and is less rainy because then I would be in heaven. I’m trying to channel my inner Cheryl Strayed (the author of my favorite book – the one that gave me the courage to start my solo travels)… my backpack is too big… I have too much food I think…. I need to eat it so the bag gets lighter… I’m pretty exhausted. I’m lying in my tent and I don’t think it’s even fully dark yet, but I’m about to pass out. I have everything inside my tent with me because I really don’t want it to get wet. My only worry is that the mice might try to get in…my fingers are crossed that they don’t.
I took the 7 am bus.. I’m thankful that my hostel had breakfast and that they made me some eggs and toast before I headed off. I walked half a mile to the bus station, and I was already tired out. I knew I was in for it. I hadn’t even looked up distances… I just figured I had to get to the next place… wildly unprepared. I took the bus and then a ferry. The views were gorgeous, but it started to rain again. I chilled at Paine Grande for a while and the rain died down a bit while I ate some lunch and got my things together. The weather was pretty good until I turned the corner with the first views of the glacier. Then the wind really picked up (that’s when my waterproof backpack cover flew away, never to be seen again.)
After that, I picked up the pace and just wanted to get to camp. There are some bridges that are gorgeous not too far from here that I want to try to see in the morning. Part of me is really glad that I will be sleeping inside one night… it is cold and a pain to set everything up. But mostly the cold, wind, and rain are the deterrents. I didn’t bring shower shoes… oh well I hope I don’t get a fungus or something. They also have WiFi here it’s kinda sad to see people FaceTiming people this remote.
When I set up my tent, I set it up just in time for the wind and rain, but I quickly realized that it was set up wrong when it was blowing over with me inside of it. Once the rain calmed down, I fixed it and then went to make my lovely meal of ramen and hotdogs, and a candy bar… it actually wasn’t too bad I was so hungry.
Day 2: Suspension Bridges and Hike Back to Paine Grande
Start the day with an optional hike to the stunning suspension bridges overlooking the glacier. You can hike to one, two, or all three! I chose to stop at the first one due to the timing and weather I was experiencing that morning, but it was worth the extra hike especially because you don’t need to carry your heavy pack.
Then, you will continue back down the same path you hiked up on Day 1 (11 kilometers), stopping for the night in Paine Grande where the Catamaran dropped you off.
Day 2: March 28, 2022
Last night was the craziest night that I have ever spent in a tent… I had to peek out every so often to make sure I wasn’t getting blown away. It continued until about 9 a.m. and then thankfully there was a break so I could pack up my tent even though everything was soaked. I made breakfast, went up to the first bridge, ate lunch, and then wandered back to camp slowly. I think I was the absolute last person, but it was perfect because I had the trail to myself. As I was hiking up to the bridge, the weather was not great it was raining off and on, but as I walked back everything started to look up – the clouds parted and the sun began to shine!!! During the first part of the hike, I was in awe. There were beautiful views everywhere!!!! I didn’t know where to look — I had some life realizations and I even cried, actually cried, out of pure joy. I was looking around me just thinking about needing to bring my dad here. He is the one who has always inspired me to follow my dreams and to be adventurous. He would be in heaven, he has to see this place. The view, that thought, and the realization of where I am in life — physically and mentally. It’s something I’ve always dreamed of and something I also never really thought would come true. Patagonia is a bucket list place for so many. To me, up until a few weeks ago, it was a brand…. I knew it existed, but I didn’t know much more. I didn’t even book my reservations for the W until a few days before… it’s insane what life can turn into if you let it take its course, and even better if you can learn and share with others.
Today was hard, but I think it was one of the best days of my life. I am cooking for myself, setting up my own shelter, and carrying everything I own on my back through some incredible conditions (this wind is no joke!!). This is my first “big girl” hike and I think I’m rocking it for as unprepared and alone as I am.
It’s empowering. It’s hard. The reward is SO great.
I made it to camp, set up my tent, and ate as much as I could. I knew I didn’t eat enough earlier but I was scared it would go right through me. I made hotdogs and rice tonight. I also had a little squeezable apple sauce/ veggie and two snack bars. I talked with other campers and got ready for bed. Tomorrow is a much longer day, so I need to get some rest to be up at 7 and packed and ready to go by 8…. Wish me luck. I’m falling asleep hoping the mice don’t get me tonight — I have some hot dogs and spilled peanut butter in my bag… but inside ziplock bags and a trash bag. I’m glad I got the warmer sleeping bag, the nights are cold… I think below freezing, and everyone else I talked to was really cold. I actually stayed warmer than I ever have camping. So that’s a mini win.
Day 3: French Valley and Camping Francés
The French Valley was my favorite day of the entire trek! To say my mind was blown is an understatement! This was one of the sights that I was not expecting or anticipating and it blew me out of the water. I had never seen such an incredible, glacier-filled mountain. I stared in awe as I watched and heard the rumbling of avalanches above.
Hike from Paine Grande to Italiano to drop your pack and continue up the French Valley to Mirador Francés and Mirador Britanico. This part is out and back, so you can choose how far you want to go and just turn around! You will still have to finish the final push to camp for the night if you are staying at Camping Francés. If you complete the entire French Valley, you will have hiked around 20 kilometers that day!
Day 3: March 29, 2022
Today was an early start. I got up around 7 with hopes of leaving by 8… I think I left a little after 9. It takes a long time to pack up camp.. I was thankful actually that it was my last night setting up everything myself. Tonight, I’m staying in a dome at Frances and the final night I am staying in an already-pitched tent. As we were packing up to leave we saw a big fox in the campsite! Also, the mice problem proved to be an issue yet again…. I was okay thankfully and so was everyone that I talked to the night before and “sprinkled good vibes onto.” Now they think that my “good vibes” actually have power 😂 one more night in a tent to hope for the best!!!
Today was the middle of the W, I didn’t go up the whole thing. I’m sure I could have made it but I just really wasn’t feeling it… I had a headache and was honestly feeling a little bit out of it, so I decided to take it slow, take lots of pictures and enjoy the journey. It’s actually a plus that I didn’t know what I was getting myself into. This way, everything I see is a pleasant surprise. Today, the views were incredible from start to finish. Everything. Incredible. As we arrived at Italiano to drop our bags, a giant mountain full of snow came into view… it was the most incredible thing that I have ever seen. So much snow, so thick, on such a huge mountain and so close… it was so big and so close that I had to take pictures with a wide angle even to try to fit it all. The close view is what I hiked up to — Mirador Frances. And then if I kept going, I would have gotten to Mirador Britanico, which is further away and has a 360-degree view. I stick with my decision. I am so tired!!! I am definitely sore… my body is holding up but it was definitely not ready for all of this all at once. I’m feeling strong and confident and glad that I made the decision to do it!
The walk from Italiano to Frances was short, only about 30 minutes, thank god because I was NOT feeling it. To get to the domes… you have to walk way down the hill.. like way down. My thoughts were noooooooooo I really don’t want to start the hike like this tomorrow. Tomorrow is going to be the longest day, so I’m going to try to go to bed early and get an early start. Being in this dome, I feel out of place. I came in disgusting with all of my stinky stuff…. But I am thankful to be able to take a shower, like an actual warm shower. I got all of the knots out of my hair and am warming up by the fire. It feels wrong, but I am also thankful at the same time. I’m not sure if I would opt to do the whole trek like this, but I am glad that I get to see what the other options are!
It’s day 3 and I’m not only looking forward to my ramen and hot dogs… I am completely finishing them and eating more.. okay I guess I’m getting a workout. I made my dinner with the most amazing view, but I couldn’t feel more out of place. I’m missing my other fellow grimy and real campers. I’m cooking hot dogs and ramen surrounded by people eating pizza and drinking beer in luxury. I’m getting some strange looks with my cook stove and it was a little hard to walk by the smell of real food to make my camp food. But hey, I’m doing it and I’m dang proud of myself for packing everything in that I needed. Trying not to spend a dime while I’m in this park.
Day 4: Camping Francés to Chileno
This is a long hiking day (17 kilometers) along the lake to get to camp near the famous Mirador Las Torres. I highly recommend staying at Chileno and getting up early to see the sunrise at the Mirador. It will be a core memory if the weather is in your favor! I even came face to face with a Puma on my way down early in the morning!
Day 4: March 30, 2022
Today was the first day I felt really comfortable with my pack. The only times I took it off were to take off a layer or to stop for a snack. After my night in the dome, I was feeling revived and ready to tackle the world!! The day is feeling like a blur now.
I started the day making oatmeal for today and tomorrow with the most beautiful sunrise and I had it to myself, other people were up but they were all in the restaurant. Then I packed up, trekked up the mountain to the bathrooms and washed my pot. I met up with some friends I made on the trail and ended up hiking the first bit with them until we got to the part along the lake… that was magical. I stopped, took off a jacket, and just hung out. It was so peaceful and tranquil. I continued on to Cuernos, used the bathroom, and kept going. Not too far after, I found the most beautiful spot to have a snack. I killed some peanut butter wraps and some more of the Argentinian candy that Guillermo from Rental Natales suggested. Most of the day was along a gorgeous lake and the color was out of the world and it was surrounded by peaks. The weather was also the best that we have had yet. There was hardly any wind and at one point there was even a reflection of the mountains. It was magical. I hiked most of the day playing leap frog with a pair of hikers from Portugal – they were a trip. I am definitely not the most unprepared here… that is for sure. Once we made the turn towards Chileno, it got a little steep. I was feeling good and knew that we were climbing up towards the towers – the final big vista of the trek. It’s crazy how quickly the time flew by. Some moments I can’t believe it’s almost over and others I am talking myself through it (only one more night of coldness, last cold shower… for now 😂) but mostly I am just overjoyed and feeling empowered by the journey!!
I ate my last ramen and hot dogs, took a freezing cold shower, and talked with some new and old trail friends. I’m pretty beat and am trying to wake up early for the sunrise at the towers. Luckily (on accident) I had an already set up tent today, so I won’t have to deal with taking it down in the morning. It even came set up with mats and sleeping bags, but I still pulled out my sleeping bag bc I know it’s warmer, this sleeping bag has been a lifesaver!!! That’s all for now, it was a really good day in the most beautiful place on earth. Goodnight.
Day 5: Mirador Las Torres and Return to Puerto Natales
The final stretch of the trek is about 15 kilometers! Wake up early and see the sunrise over the famous Mirador Las Torres and then head down to Torres Central & Norte to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales and have a hard-earned hot meal!
Day 5: March 31, 2022
Condors and pumas, the most amazing sunrise and fall colors. Oh man, the earth is magnificent!
In the time that I’ve been in the park, fall has arrived. The trees look amazing!! They were the best up high, but even driving towards town, the leaves have been changing!! I think I came at exactly the perfect time, it was so good.
Bodies are amazing. I know my pack is lighter, but not that much lighter… but it feels like it’s just a part of me now. Day one it was the biggest burden, now it’s a source of empowerment and self-sufficiency. Crazy how things can change and evolve in such a short time if you go all in and are open to new experiences. Some people called me badass for traveling and trekking solo, but honestly, I never felt alone. There was an amazing community of other hikers supporting and looking after each other the whole way.
My heart is so full today. I can’t believe it’s been five days, and I can’t believe all that I’ve seen and accomplished. 50 Miles. Crazy!!!!
Today, I got up around 5 a.m. to pack my stuff and head up the mountain to see the Torres at sunrise. It was a steep climb and I only got a little off the path a few times in the dark…. But it was a steep and hot climb. I made it to the top at the perfect time. Right as the sky was turning orange and about 15 minutes before the sun came across the towers. Magical, just pure magic. It was cold and windy up there, I just piled on the layers, but other campers brought their sleeping bags and really soaked in the sunrise, I love it.
After staying up there for a good while and getting some pictures, I headed down the trail pretty quickly. I talked to a few other hikers, an awesome girl from Switzerland and then I ran into a puma! Literally, face to face, I didn’t get any good pictures or videos because it was literally so close that I was scared I might be it’s breakfast!!! A lot of other hikers ran into it too.. it was a wild experience!! It got my heart racing for sure.
Got back to camp at Chileno, grabbed my pack, repacked, had a snack, and headed down the mountain to catch my 2:30 p.m. bus. Part of me felt like I wished I could have just continued on with the O — I think I could have done it. But I also am thankful and satisfied with the W. Ending on a high note is always good! I miss the mountains already. I felt so at home surrounded by nature.
Part of me doesn’t know how to feel about the way Torres del Paine is set up with the ability to hike without any food or camping gear. Part of me thinks it’s awesome that it opens up the opportunity to so many. I saw some awesome grandmas doing it!! Hell yeah!! But I also ran into some snobby people who didn’t even seem to be in it for nature at all. I also felt like a poor person and outcast all smelly, walking by the fancy, touristy hotels and restaurants. Oh well.
Hiking the W has been the most incredible experience of my life!! Today felt like a “short day” because I finished by around 1 p.m., but I still walked over 10 miles and most of it with a big pack! I am damn proud of myself.
Conclusion
Reading back through my notes from this journey has me laughing so hard and smiling from ear to ear. Hiking the W is truly one of my most memorable experiences and something that you have to experience for yourself!
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to reach out to me, tara@adventara.co.
I would absolutely love for you to experience the magic!